Find the contact before changing the door
Close the door slowly and mark the exact top corner or edge that touches. Check the hinge leaves and screws, the reveal around the slab, the latch alignment, and whether the frame is square. A rub on the hinge side points to a different path than a rub on the latch-side head.
| Pattern | First possibility | Do not assume |
|---|---|---|
| Hinge-side top contact | Loose hardware or sag | That the slab needs trimming. |
| Latch-side head contact | Frame movement or swelling | That one screw will solve it. |
| Uneven reveal on several sides | Frame or opening movement | That the door is the only problem. |
| Change after wet weather | Moisture-related movement | That it will always disappear. |
Tighten or replace only hardware that matches the existing system and does not damage the frame. If the frame or opening has moved, a cosmetic cut may be the wrong first action. A sticking exterior door can also be part of a weather-sealing and security problem.
Stop conditions
Pause if the slab is binding hard, hinges are pulling out, the frame is visibly twisted, the wall is damp, or several doors changed at once. Those signs justify a wider inspection rather than repeated trimming.
Limits
No door was tested and no universal screw length, hinge adjustment, or trimming amount is prescribed. Hardware instructions and a qualified local repairer control the specific fix.
Sources and related reading
See Also
If you want to move from general advice into actual product choices, start with Drywall Corner-Bead Cracks: What the Pattern Tells You, Drywall Paper Tape Bubbling: Repair or Retape?, and What to Look for in Drill Torque Settings.
For a wider picture after the basics, Single Hung vs Double Hung Windows: Which Fits Better and Klein Tools ET310 Review: A No-Nonsense Circuit Breaker Finder are the next places to read.