Before replacing an outdoor spigot, find out where it leaks and what kind it is. A leak at the handle or a drip at the nozzle can often be repaired. Water showing up inside the house when the faucet runs points to a split frost-free tube or a failed connection, which means replacement. If you replace it with a frost-free model, it has to reach into heated space and be installed pitched toward the outside so it drains.

Diagnose the leak first

  • Leak around the handle: often the packing. Woodford says a leak at the packing nut behind the handle can be stopped by tightening the nut.
  • Drip from the nozzle when it’s off: a worn washer, cartridge or seat. Many models can be rebuilt with parts from the maker’s parts diagram.
  • Water inside the wall or basement only while it runs: suspect a split tube from freezing. Shut off the supply and replace the faucet.
  • Spray from the top of the spout: check the vacuum breaker. See hose-bib vacuum-breaker leaks .

Identify what you have

An outdoor spigot may be a short sillcock with the valve outside, or a frost-free wall faucet with a long tube that puts the valve inside the house. Photograph any label. Measure the wall thickness and the existing tube length, and look inside for the shutoff, the pipe material and the connection type (threaded, soldered, press or push-fit). The hose threads on the outside don’t tell you the supply connection on the inside.

How frost-free faucets stay unfrozen

Woodford explains that a frost-proof faucet closes inside the heated part of the house, and the water in the tube drains out each time you shut it off. That only works when:

  • The tube pitches downward. Woodford’s instructions require a slight downward pitch toward the nozzle.
  • The hose is removed in freezing weather. A hose or other restriction left on traps water, which can freeze and burst the tube.
  • The supply connection is in heated space. Woodford says the water supply connection must be installed in a heated space.

Choose a length that puts the valve inside the heated envelope for your wall thickness.

Installing a frost-free wall faucet

Using Woodford’s Model 14 and 17 instructions as an example:

  1. Shut off and drain the supply, and flush the supply line to remove debris.
  2. Drill the wall opening to the size the instructions give (1-1/8 inches for these models) and insert the faucet from outside.
  3. Set the tube with a slight downward pitch.
  4. For a soldered connection, open the faucet fully before soldering. Woodford warns that excessive heat can damage the seat and the factory solder joint.
  5. Fasten the flange to the wall with suitable fasteners. Seal the exterior penetration without blocking drainage.
  6. Restore water. Test with the faucet closed and running, and check the inside connection before closing access.

Woodford describes these models as ASSE 1019 devices for irrigation and outdoor watering. Check what backflow protection your local plumbing code requires.

FAQ

Why does a frost-free faucet leak inside the wall?

Usually because water was trapped in the tube and froze. Woodford says a hose or other restriction left on in freezing weather keeps the faucet from draining, and the tube can burst. A failed inlet connection is the other suspect. Shut off the supply and inspect before using it again.

Should I leave a hose attached in winter?

No. Woodford says a frost-proof faucet drains automatically only with the hose removed. A hose left on in freezing weather traps water that can freeze and split the tube.

How should a frost-free faucet slope?

Slightly downward toward the nozzle. Woodford’s instructions require a slight downward pitch for proper drainage.

Can I fix a leak at the handle without replacing the spigot?

Often. Woodford notes that a leak at the packing nut behind the handle can be stopped by tightening the nut. Drips from the nozzle can come from a worn washer or seat, which many models let you rebuild.

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